We rely on our cars to get us to work, to school, and back home again. And we often take it for granted that they’ll always work for us. But sometimes your car simply won’t start.

Sometimes it may be an electrical problem, as we explored last week. But a problem with your fuel system or another mechanical problem could also cause your car not to start.

Fuel System Problems

If your engine can’t get any fuel, it won’t be able to keep going. So the engine may seem to turn over, only to sputter out. Or it may not even have enough fuel to turn over.

• Clogged fuel filter: The fuel filter removes impurities from gasoline before the gas enters your engine, where dirt and other particles can damage the pistons and other mechanical parts. You should have your mechanic replace it every 12,000 miles, because eventually it gets clogged. Once fuel can’t get through the filter anymore, the engine won’t have what it needs to start and keep going.
• Fuel pump failure: The fuel pump and relay system move gasoline from the tank to the engine. Testing the pump requires specialized equipment, so it’s best to leave this task to Sandalwood Car Care. First your mechanic will check the current to make sure that the fuel relay is getting proper power. Then he’ll check the fuse. If both of these check out, the problem is generally the fuel pump relay, rather than the pump itself.
• Bad connection in the fuel injection system: Every component of the fuel injection system has its own electrical connection. Over time, the connections can get loose, or the parts themselves may deteriorate. Your mechanic can check all these connections to determine whether any connections are loose or require replacement.

Other Mechanical Issues

A host of other mechanical problems can keep your car from starting. If electrical or fuel system problems aren’t to blame, one of these problems may be present:

• Loose starter bolts
• Faulty cold-start valve
• Chipped ring gear or flywheel
• Bad injectors
• Bad central computer system (MAF/ECU)
• Faulty ignition coil or misfiring coil wire
• Faulty distributor cap (especially in wet weather)

If your car won’t start properly, call the reliable, experienced team here at Sandalwood Car Care. We’re proud to serve the Jacksonville area.

You turn the key…and nothing happens. Here in Jacksonville, cold weather certainly isn’t the culprit, especially in August.  Multiple issues can keep your car from starting properly.

First, it’s important to differentiate between the key simply not turning in the ignition, and the car not turning over. If your key won’t turn, try turning the steering wheel a bit to disengage the steering wheel lock. You may also want to make sure that your car is completely in “Park.”

But what about when the key turns and the engine simply won’t turn over, or it turns over and dies? The problem could be electrical, fuel related, or a host of other mechanical failures.

Electrical Problems

In older cars, a bad fuse could keep a car from starting. However in most cases, the problem is more complicated.

• Dead battery: The most common—and easiest to fix—reason a car won’t start, a dead battery also has other telltale signs. Simply clean your battery posts, jump the car, or replace the battery, and you’ll be back on the road. If your battery keeps going dead, the problem might actually be your alternator.
• Bad battery cable: The cables that connect the battery to your car can get corroded over time. One sign of a bad battery cable is a rapid series of clicks after you turn the key in the ignition.
• Bad ignition switch: If your battery shows no signs of malfunction, it could be time to replace the ignition switch. Put the key in the “on” position, but don’t turn it all the way to start the car. The ignition switch is probably bad if the red warning lights on the dashboard don’t come on.
• Bad starter: Testing the starter on your own can be done, but it’s best to trust that work to a reliable mechanic. Your mechanic will use a circuit tester to measure the voltage produced by the starter.

Generally these electrical problems keep the car from turning on at all. However, if your battery and cables check out, the starter works, and the ignition functions properly, your car trouble probably isn’t the result of an electrical problem. Bring your car to Sandalwood Car Care for a complete diagnosis you can trust.

Sure, your brakes play a critical part in stopping your car, but your tires also have considerable impact on your vehicle’s ability to stop effectively. And with Hurricane Irene heading up Florida’s coast, rain could make braking even more difficult this weekend.  Visit our NAPA page for more information on tread depth and stopping power.

Maybe it’s coming from under the hood, or perhaps it sounds like a backfire from the car’s rear. Those unexpected noises can tell you quite a bit about what’s wrong with your car. Some of these noises might be completely harmless, while others indicate that it’s time to visit the mechanic. Here’s a look at some of the most common car noises and what they mean:

• Clicking when you start the car: This sound is the starter trying to connect the battery to the alternator, to initiate the electrical systems in the car. It could mean the battery is dead, or that it’s time for a new alternator.
• Squeaking and groaning around corners: These sounds are usually emitted from the steering linkage.  A low hum or groan that sounds like it’s coming from the steering wheel may mean you need more power steering fluid, as well.
• Clunking when you brake: This noise occurs when a brake caliper isn’t catching properly. It may sometimes be accompanied by screeching or squeaking during braking.
• Sizzling or hissing from under the hood: That’s the sound of liquid leaking and landing on a hot car part. Check under your car to see if any fluid is on the ground, and look under the hood for signs of leaks.
• Knocking from under the hood: Usually this sound happens because of either low-quality fuel, or because the fuel used is a higher octane than what the vehicle was built for. Eliminate it by getting gas from reputable stations and following manufacturer’s recommendations for fuel octane levels.
• Backfiring: Resembling the sound of a gunshot, a backfire happens when the air-fuel mixture isn’t quite right, or if the catalytic converter isn’t functioning properly.
• Humming or whirring: These sounds might indicate a variety of problems, including a faulty wheel bearing, a failing transmission, or a differential that needs lubricant.
• Popping from the engine:  Low oil, a clogged fuel filter, and other minor problems can cause this sound. The same problems may cause a lighter tapping noise.

Check out Car Talk’s comprehensive guide to car sounds for more information. And remember that some of these sounds are great warning signs. When you hear strange noises under the hood, visit a mechanic to diagnose the problem and get the appropriate repairs.

Your alternator is part of the system that delivers electricity throughout your vehicle, powering the headlights, interior lights, and accessories. Driven by the crankshaft, the alternator is usually located near the front of the engine. Usually your alternator won’t simply quit without warning—most drivers notice subtle signs over time.

1. Flickering battery light: Your battery light doesn’t simply indicate a problem with the battery itself. The light comes on when the alternator’s voltage output doesn’t fall within a specific range. If the alternator isn’t working properly, the battery light may flicker on and off as the alternator’s output wavers.
2. Dim lights: Think about a flashlight with a dying battery; the light slowly dims over time, until it finally goes out. Your internal lights and headlights may do the same thing as the alternator fails to provide adequate power for all the car’s systems.
3. Extremely bright lights: As an alternator goes bad, it may also produce power surges. These surges can cause the car’s lights to suddenly become extremely bright. The effect is usually temporary.
4. Strange noises from under the hood: The noises most commonly associated with alternator problems are growling and whining. A clicking noise may also occur when you try to start the car. That sound is the starter trying to connect the alternator to the battery.
5. Unpleasant odor: When the alternator works too hard, it heats up. As a result, the connecting wires may overheat and melt or burn. The smell of burning rubber or hot wires alone isn’t enough to diagnose an alternator problem, but in conjunction with other signs it can indicate a bad alternator.
6. Dead battery: Maybe you just jumped your car, and the battery is already dead. This occurs when the battery tries to “pick up the slack” for the alternator and provide long-term power to the car. If the battery’s voltage is still fine, the alternator may be to blame for the dead battery.
7. Failure of accessories or instruments: The electric windows may stop working, the radio may cut out, or your cell phone won’t charge from the cigarette lighter. Newer cars are programmed with a priority list of what gets power first. These non-essential items are the first to go.

When the alternator finally fails for good, your car simply won’t start and you could end up stranded somewhere. If you suspect a problem with your alternator or the other connected elements, schedule an appointment with your mechanic.

Recently John Robb of Global Guerrillas published a short blog post on this. His conclusion: no. It’s important to explain what “resilient” means. The word doesn’t mean that electric and hybrid vehicles are unreliable or prone to breakdown. Resilient vehicles:

• Have a minimal amount of engine-related electronics
• Are designed with simplicity
• Can often be repaired with a simple set of tools and basic understanding of mechanics

With this definition, most vehicles manufactured today (not just hybrid and electric cars) wouldn’t be considered resilient vehicles. Contemporary cars require specialized knowledge and access to an electronic diagnostic system for most repairs. But electric cars do require a little additional knowledge and equipment, and buyers will want to know this before they “make the switch.”

• Electric cars require different batteries than regular cars. These can be more difficult to obtain.
• The electrical subsystem requires specialized knowledge that not all mechanics have. If you love your mechanic, ask about his expertise in repairing electric and hybrid cars.
• A source of electricity isn’t always readily available.

That said, electric and hybid cars still represent a significant opportunity for environmental stewardship. Where do you stand on buying a green vehicle? And how have maintenance and repair concerns shaped your opinion?

You turn the steering wheel, and the car’s wheels simply follow…but how simple is it, really? Your car’s steering isn’t necessarily complicated, but it is critical to the car’s function.

Types of Steering Systems

Most cars, trucks, and SUV’s use a rack-and-pinion steering system. At the end of the steering shaft is a pinion gear. Meanwhile, the rack is on the axel that connects the wheels. The rack has a series of teeth in it, and the pinion gear sits in these teeth. When the steering wheel turns, the pinion gear also turns, moving the rack back and forth. Rack-and-pinion steering makes it easier t turn the steering wheel and converts the rotational motion of the wheel into the linear motion needed to turn the wheels.

Heavier trucks and SUV’s sometimes have recirculating-ball steering. It has a few extra parts. The steering shaft goes into a box and has a worm gear at the end. Inside the box are two parts: a block of metal with a threaded hole in it; and a pitman arm, which connects to the tile and tracking arms attached to the tires. When the steering wheel turns, it actually turns a bolt in the box, which moves the block, which finally moves the gears to turn the wheels.

How Power Steering Works

Power steering can be used with either rack-and-pinion or recirculating-ball steering. Essentially a power-steering system operates by changing fluid pressure in a cylinder in the steering system. As fluid pressure builds, the gears turn as needed—with less effort required to turn the wheel.

Power steering has become an incredibly common feature in modern automobiles. Although it is still possible to steer a car if the power steering goes out, the process requires much more effort. Power steering usually doesn’t go out suddenly, unless the hydraulic pump that powers the system goes out. Instead, you may notice that it’s increasingly more difficult to turn the wheel. Here are some telltale signs that your power steering system needs a little TLC:

• Gummy or discolored power steering fluid
• Bubbles or foam in the fluid
• Chrome or metal flakes on or around the steering apparatus
• Low power steering fluid
• Leaking power steering fluid
• A squealing noise when you turn the wheel sharply or suddenly
• Jumpy, choppy, or loose steering

Although you may be able to add power steering fluid yourself, other repairs to your steering system will require an expert. If you’ve noticed any changes in steering, seek a reliable mechanic. Call Sandalwood Car Care at 904-641-7377. We’ve proudly served Jacksonville for over 20 years.

Hate the extra heat? So does your engine. If you’ve recently noticed that the engine temp gauge is creeping higher, it’s time to see your mechanic.

Why Your Engine Overheats

Countless mechanical problems can lead to an overheated engine. Anything that impacts the engine’s ability to cool contributes to increased engine temperatures.

• Low coolant levels or a coolant leak
• Built up deposits in water jackets
• Leaky water pump
• Plugged or dirty radiator
• Broken electric cooling fan
• Collapsed lower radiator hose
• Defective radiator cap

Your mechanic will need to inspect your car to determine the cause of the problem.

Results of an Overheated Engine

It’s important to get your car repaired as soon as possible if the engine is overheating. Letting it go can cause serious damage to your car’s engine and, sometimes, damage to other systems in your automobile

The most common necessary repair is a new thermostat. Overheating can damage the thermostat, so your mechanic will test it and replace it if necessary. While the thermostat can get damaged relatively quickly, other damage is more likely as a vehicle continues to overheat.

• As the engine begins to detonate, the pistons, rings, and rod bearings can be damaged from the excess heat.
• Pre-ignition causes hot spots to develop in the combustion chamber. The resulting erratic combustion can even burn holes right through the top of pistons.
• The OTC cam may seize or break.
• Head gaskets may blow as aluminum swells and places extra pressure on the gasket.
• If the coolant gets hot enough to boil, the radiator and the connected hoses can break under pressure.

For a fast, accurate diagnosis of engine overheating, bring your car to Sandalwood Car Care. We’re proud to deliver exceptional auto care to the Jacksonville community.

Maybe your car has been extra squeaky over speed bumps, or perhaps your mechanic just said it’s time for new shocks. Here’s what you need to know about shocks and struts before you agree to any repairs.

How Shocks and Struts Work

Not all cars have both shocks and struts. A strut is a complete suspension assembly, while a shock is part of the overall suspension. Your suspension system is what keeps your car from bouncing all over the place each time you hit a bump in the road. Shocks and struts have two main purposes:

• Dampen spring movement: Springs (not shocks!) actually absorb road shocks. The shocks quiet these springs, so that the car doesn’t bounce up and down indefinitely each time you hit a bump in the road.
• Increase ride control: Shocks and struts help keep your car on the road and make driving more manageable. They also increase your control and ease of cornering.

Maintaining Shocks and Struts

Keeping your shocks and struts in good repair also increases the life of other parts of your vehicle, such as your tires, CV joints, ball joints, and steering linkage. Your mechanic can easily inspect the shocks and/or struts each time you get an oil change. You may also want to take your car in to have the suspension checked if you notice these signs:

• Rolling or swaying on turns
• Bouncing or sliding sideways on winding roads
• “Bottoming out” over bumps
• Diving of the front end during braking
• Squatting of the rear end during acceleration

This video illustrates the steps your mechanic will use to replace your shocks and/or struts.

You’re cruising through Jacksonville, heading to the beach, when your “Check Engine” light comes on.  How does your mechanic figure out what what’s wrong with your car? We use a computer to determine which repairs are necessary.

The On-Board Diagnostic System

All cars manufactured since 1996 are equipped with an on-board diagnostic system (OBS). Newer cars are outfitted with the second generation of OBS technology, called OBS-II.

The OBS has sensors and activation centers throughout your vehicle. Most sensors are focused on engine operation, but they also monitor other systems, like the brakes and exhaust. All the sensors constantly send data back to the system’s central computer.

Diagnosing Mechanical Problems

The central computer is programmed with what that data should be when the car is operating properly. The OBS constantly compares the incoming data with the pre-programmed numbers. If the data don’t match, that triggers the “Check Engine” light to come on. Meanwhile the computer stores the data so that it can be accessed later.

To determine what’s wrong with your car, your mechanic will plug in a computer to your car and download the necessary data.  He analyzes the codes to figure out which repairs are necessary. Simply looking at the data isn’t enough to diagnose the problem—your mechanic must actually interpret the data correctly.

At Sandalwood Car Care Center, we use the most advanced diagnostic equipment available and our staff are experienced at making the right repair the first time. If your car needs repair, call 904-641-7377 to schedule an appointment.